The Kodiak Club

Some things just take forever to do…

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Its not my fault that the growing trend of ‘Closed on Tuesday’ is getting bigger. Am I missing something here? What makes Tuesday so much different to Monday? I don’t know anyone who has ever said ‘Shit, it’s Tightarse Tuesday. Better stay home.’ So much so that Kodiak Club has taken at least a year for us to get to for review. Well finally, we managed to corral the crew into the joint on a Monday, and it was empty. JW said this places heaves on the weekends, which is good because they have such an amazing collection of American beers and bourbon and I can only imagine the atmosphere when this place gets busy.

IMG_6096The burgers, as you would expect, were equally amazing. 2 grass fed beef patties with American (didn’t say what, i’ll say Jack) Cheese, pickle, onion and a bourbon mayo. The sauce was just enough to give you a whiff, but you can add additional if you wish. We found no need, but did give it a healthy dose of chilli sauce.

As an aside, I don’t buy into the Waygu bullshit hype anymore – neither should you. A good blend of meat, (most good places will go with the tried-and-tested ground chuck from good quality cows), and Wagyu, are almost indiscernible for a couple of reasons.

1 – Unless it is true Japanese Wagyu such as Kobe or my favourite Omi, it is imitation. Plain and simple. American and Australian versions are just that – versions – and whilst they offer generally a leaner cut of Wagyu the taste is more towards a traditional cow than of the Japanese sort. Don’t get me wrong, I love Aussie waygu, and use it religiously, but you shouldnt be paying any extra for it in your burger and you will not taste any difference in the final product. This is also because:

2 – Waygu is made to be cooked the complete opposite to how burgers generally are. Burgers are blended and moulded and thrown on the griddle at scorching temperatures aiming at a really quick cook time. Waygu on the other hand, has fats that render at lower temperatures, hence need to be caressed into a medium rare temperature. Get it wrong, and you risk consuming a consummate mess of burned fat and meat, even if it is still pink. Thats not saying it can’t be done right, you only have to look at Huxtaburger to see Aussie Wagyu Burgers done well – its just that it’s not necessary. Having the privilege to eat at Spotted Pig and Minetta Tavern in New York, I can tell you the cuts of beef used are more important than weather it is Wagyu or not.

Back on topic, this was a stunner on the night. Crinkle Cut fries were ok (Of the frozen sort me thinks) but the burger was absolutely sensational. Cooked to a perfect pink, the bun was brioche but not overly sweet and the cheese just set it all off. This will go down as one of Melbourne’s top burgers in 2014, and for good reason. Go now!

The Kodiak Club
272 Brunswick St, Fitzroy
The Kodiak Club on Urbanspoon


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