It is so refreshing to see young Northcote entrepreneur Luca Guerra buck the trend of Neapolitan wood-fired pizza and instead re-imagine his favourite culinary stalwart; Gabriele Bonci and his iconic Pizzarium. The concept is glaringly simple. Where Neapolitan pizza prides itself on light dough, lightning cook times and minimalist ingredients, Lievita instead focuses on qwerky, contrasted, sometimes extreme ingredients with virtually no boundaries. The pizza is cooked in large slabs, cut to order and sold by weight. Ever looked at a menu at a pizzeria and loved at least 5 or 6 pizzas? This takes the depression out of choosing just one. The dough, while still subjected to longer fermentations, bucks traditional white flour for integrale, flour that has been stone ground to retain the natural bran and germ that retains much of the essential fats, oils and minerals that flour was once known for. The cook times, circa 25 minutes allow the ciabatta-esque dough to develop a caramelisation and gives the denser dough a better chance for oven spring. The variations, of which there are literally hundreds, change seasonally. Opening in summertime, you can expect plenty of tomato, eggplant and zucchini along side all year round favourites like classic Caprese and potato. The styles range from classic Crostata, where one main ingredient dominates, to ripieno where a host of them are sandwiched in between two layers of dough. The various combinations, Guerra muses, are “only limited by the imagination”. Lievita officially opens in January 2015. In true Pizzarium style, there are no bookings, no large tables, and no roomy 200 seats. No, this is everything that encompasses pizza al taglio; cozy, romantic and social. Lievita 298 High St, Nortcote.